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With a team of 3 climbers that will require the use of 60- 80 feet of rope plus 10-15 feet taken up by knots. Have 6 arm lengths of rope between each climber If youre on a two person team its best practice to tie about six brake knots in the rope between each climber.
This rope has a middle mark and comes with a nice storage bag which can be used for a clean toss when you need to rappel.
Best glacier travel rope. As dyneema ropes are about half the weight and much less volume than a typical half rope and as an extra do not hold water this is in my opinion the ideal rope for glacier mountaineering. If you will only use the rope on glaciers and for rappelling it is perfectly suited. It comes with a dry treatment nice for glacier travel and has a 9kN rating if I can remember correctly which I would equate to a half rope.
Plenty for glacier travel and rapping but a little on the unsafe side depending on your risk tolerance. Still pretty bulky but a good option if the RAD line is out of your price-range. 30m ropes are pretty worthless for all but the most benign snow slopes and glaciers.
Id recommend a 60m ropethe extra length is useful on glaciers and youll need it for icerock. Id say get a 95-98mm. Its a good compromise on weight for alpine routes and durability for cragging.
Nearly any rope static or dynamic is acceptable for holding a fall in glacier travel. A dynamic rope will lessen the impact on the person holding a crevasse fall which is very important and outweigh the disadvantages of some rope elongation when setting up a hauling system. Good luck and have fun Brian.
The end climbers coil the remaining rope using a butterfly coil see technique below and store the rope inside their backpacks. How to Butterfly Coil a Rope. One way to butterfly coil a rope is to use your shoulders and neck to help form the loops of the coil.
You can coil the rope while holding it in your hands Here are the steps. Either of those ropes will work fine but 50m is longer than Id carry for a glacier rope. We usually use a 80mm twin for glacier travel even with full packs and at least one big boy me.
30m is long enough for a party of three. Ditto to McLeans suggestion that 2 30ms are better than 1 60m. 8mm or even 77mm Ice Floss raps fine with a BD.
Standard glacier travel technique involves tying team-mates together a certain distance apart. These distances are based on how wide the crevasses are and are referred to as rope intervals These rope intervals change depending on where you are in the world and what kind of crevasse hazard you are dealing with but typically they range anywhere from 35 ft. I think one 60m pure half-rope is good for glacier approaches – and for alpine climbing routes ones which do not require an abseil more than 30 meters.
One half-rope is tested to hold a leader falls so you can use it for Lead climbing without a second rope. No need for triple rated or even double rated. Have 6 arm lengths of rope between each climber If youre on a two person team its best practice to tie about six brake knots in the rope between each climber.
If you have a team of three put the least experienced person in the middle and the two more experienced people on the end. You can use a static rope eg one sold as Rando or walking for glacier travel crevasse rescues confidence roping rappels. This rope has a little stretch but is not designed to stretch to absorb falls and the only falls involved - crevasses in a rope team - should be very low factor.
With a team of 3 climbers that will require the use of 60- 80 feet of rope plus 10-15 feet taken up by knots. Therefore if using a 50-meter rope 165 feet you will have an excess of 80-85 feet. With your 60-meter rope youll have more.
You may also consider using a mountaineers coil - instead of a kiwi coil - to tie off the excess rope. The Petzl RAD system an complete kit designed specifically for crevasse rescue uses very low stretch 6mm static rope. Mammut makes a 6mm dry treated Glacier Cord also a static rope designed for crevasse rescue.
This rope has a middle mark and comes with a nice storage bag which can be used for a clean toss when you need to rappel. How to Rope Up for Glacier Travel - YouTube. Vrbo Win VR This Is Book Early 15s Combo.
Five person team - 5 arm lengths - 30 feet between climbers. In a pinch its possible to have a larger team but it is not optimal. And you should never go below 30 feet between climbers.
When you get to teams with five or six people on them generally there is not enough rope on either end to perform a rescue. When to Rope Up. Have your harness on before stepping onto a glacier and if its flat light then rope up right away.
You have it so why not use it. Its good practice to always be roped up especially on unknown terrain. Crevasses in the Canadian Rockies.
Photo Altus Mountain Guides. A straight-shafted 50-60cm ice axe is a good choice for general alpinism. Poles Adjustable ski or trekking poles provide extra balance when travelling on low-angled glaciers where an axe is too short to reach the ground.
They are also useful for probing crevasses. Poles can be compressed and stored on the outside of your rucksack when not in use. The first step in choosing a route across a glacier is to figure out where the crevasses are.
Here are some tips. - Study photographs of the glacier before the trip as some crevasse patterns remain the same year after year. - On the approach try to get a good look at the glacier.
You can use it for glacier travel 100 and for leading in a pinch 100. When I say leading in a pinch. Well the usage for a half rope involves a single half rope to hold your fall.
You generally use two halves clipped to different pieces of gear. If you fall the full impact will be on the half rope clipped to your highest piece in theory.